The road to Lee is one of the great small adventures of North Devon, winding down through a wooded valley to a hamlet that feels genuinely removed from the bustle of the modern world. And waiting at the end of that road is The Grampus Inn, one of the most atmospheric and rewarding pubs in the whole of the South West.
This is a pub with genuine character, the kind that cannot be manufactured or designed in. Low ceilings, real fires, a well-kept selection of ales and a clientele that mixes locals, walkers and lucky you who stumbled upon it and immediately understood why people make the effort to find it. The Grampus has a wonderful tradition of live music too, with regular sessions that fill the bar with warmth and energy.
Dogs are absolutely welcome here, which is perfect given that Lee is surrounded by beautiful walking country. The coastal path from Lee is spectacular, passing through some of the most dramatic scenery on the North Devon coast, and The Grampus is the ideal reward at the end of it.
The food is honest pub fare, satisfying and well made, designed to complement the drinks and the atmosphere rather than compete with them. This is a place to come for the experience as much as the menu, and the experience is very special indeed.
The pub has a fire that becomes the social centre of gravity on cooler evenings, drawing people in from the surrounding lanes and holding them there far longer than intended. Real ale, proper food and a setting that has barely changed in living memory make The Grampus one of those rare pubs that earns its reputation without any effort at all. It is simply, quietly exceptional.
From Woolacombe, Lee is a short drive, and the journey itself is part of the pleasure. Discovering The Grampus Inn is the kind of thing that makes a North Devon holiday feel wonderfully rich.