Marine Drive, Ilfracombe, Devon, EX34 9NU
Tucked below the high cliffs of Hillsborough on the eastern edge of Ilfracombe, Rapparee Cove is a beach with a fascinating and sometimes dramatic past. The waters just offshore are the site of the 1796 wreck of the London, a tragedy in which many passengers perished, and the cove’s history is woven through with tales of smuggling, shipwrecks and Victorian bathing. Knowing that history as you sit on the sand adds a certain depth to the experience.
Today, Rapparee is a peaceful and beautifully sheltered cove that feels like a world away from the town above. The beach is a mix of sand and pebbles, with rocks at either side that make for excellent exploring at low tide. The cliffs of Hillsborough rise sharply behind you, providing a sense of enclosure and shelter that makes this one of the most protected spots on this section of the North Devon coast.
Wild swimmers appreciate Rapparee for its relatively calm water and the secluded feel of the cove. The Victorian shelter that remains at the back of the beach is a reminder of the days when this was a fashionable bathing spot with its own ferry service from the pier. That sense of history and character is part of what makes Rapparee worth seeking out.
Access is easy enough on foot from Ilfracombe harbour or from the Larkstone car park, though the steps down to the beach are steep and require care. The beach reduces significantly at high tide, so timing your visit around low water is well worthwhile.
Rapparee Cove will not suit everyone. It is pebblier, smaller and wilder than the beaches further west. But for those who enjoy history, seclusion and the feeling of a beach with genuine character, it is a brilliant find right on the edge of a very characterful town.
