Ilfracombe

Ilfracombe is a town that repays time. North Devon’s largest coastal resort, it sits on a dramatic stretch of coast where the cliffs plunge straight to the harbour, and what you find here is a genuinely varied mix of Victorian heritage, contemporary culture, excellent food and sea-facing drama that few towns of its size can match.

Start at the harbour, where Damien Hirst’s 20-metre bronze Verity stands on the pier, one of the most provocative and discussed public artworks in the South West, and unmistakable. Walk around the quay to the Ilfracombe Aquarium in the old lifeboat house, then climb Lantern Hill to St Nicholas Chapel, the world’s oldest working lighthouse, built in 1321. On a clear day the view across the Bristol Channel from here is extraordinary.

The Ilfracombe Museum on Wilder Road is one of the region’s most characterful collections, Victorian curiosities, natural history, Himalayan artefacts and local maritime history in a building that feels charmingly unchanged. The Landmark Theatre, with its distinctive twin domes on the promenade, hosts theatre, music and comedy throughout the year.

From the town, Tunnels Beaches (hand-carved through the cliff in the 1820s) give access to sheltered coves and a tidal swimming pool. The walk along the coast path in either direction offers outstanding views, east towards Combe Martin and Watermouth Cove, west towards Lee Bay and Morte Point.

The restaurant scene has improved greatly in recent years, with several very good options around the harbour. Ilfracombe is about 6 miles from Woolacombe, perfectly placed for a half-day visit or a full evening out.

Ilfracombe repays exploration on foot. The South West Coast Path runs right through the town, and the sections east toward Combe Martin and west toward Lee Bay are both outstanding. The town’s Victorian architecture, particularly the terraces on the hillside above the harbour, has been gradually coming back to life after a long period of neglect, and the sense of a town rediscovering its confidence is palpable. A harbour walk in the evening, with the lights coming on along the waterfront, is a thoroughly pleasant way to end any Ilfracombe day.